the first thing i would do is take the seat off and check that all battery connects are good,paying special attention to the ground side.i would disconnect the aftermarket controller and continue riding until this problem is resolved or it arises again before continuing any further repair or diagnosis. process of elimination this will be first assuming no codes are stored. strictly one mans assumption.
Raider Stalling? Any Ideas?
After another unreal ride here in the UP of Michigan, on March 18th...with 80 degree air temps:lol:, I was reminded of an issue I was having last year and forgot about over the winter. I have an '09 Raider with VH 2-1 pipes and a PCV, nothing else(engine wise). This is an intermitent problem, but seems to happen more the warmer it is.
Either when cruising for an extended period of time at higher speeds down the highway and then having to stop quicker coming off the ramp, so I pull in the clutch to brake and downshift, and the bike stalls out. Or if I get on it and run it up through the gears fast once or twice, then just pull in the clutch after winding out a gear, she dies off and stalls, instead of dropping down to an idle. Always starts right back up and acts like nothing happened. I have come up to a stop sign after winding her out a bit, and had to actually keep it running with a touch of throttle or it would stall. Definatly seems to happen more after "beating" on her a bit...gently of course!
Its been doing this for over a year, and as I said, it dosn't do it all the time. I added the PCV last summer, thinking it may take that away...but it didn't. I just have the map from Dynotech for my bike/pipe combo, I belive this is the best?? I have NO good dealer anywhere near me to try to diagnose this...and I figured the welth of info on here, this was my best chance!
Any ideas?? :dontknow:
Either when cruising for an extended period of time at higher speeds down the highway and then having to stop quicker coming off the ramp, so I pull in the clutch to brake and downshift, and the bike stalls out. Or if I get on it and run it up through the gears fast once or twice, then just pull in the clutch after winding out a gear, she dies off and stalls, instead of dropping down to an idle. Always starts right back up and acts like nothing happened. I have come up to a stop sign after winding her out a bit, and had to actually keep it running with a touch of throttle or it would stall. Definatly seems to happen more after "beating" on her a bit...gently of course!
Its been doing this for over a year, and as I said, it dosn't do it all the time. I added the PCV last summer, thinking it may take that away...but it didn't. I just have the map from Dynotech for my bike/pipe combo, I belive this is the best?? I have NO good dealer anywhere near me to try to diagnose this...and I figured the welth of info on here, this was my best chance!
Any ideas?? :dontknow:
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whoops hit the button to reply before finished,if you added the pipes before the controller did it start this symptom? possible if there is a questionable connection to the o2 sensor or leak at the head pipe seal and causing a lean o2 reading. will also be waiting for replies
1) Reset your throttle position in the PCV.
2) Make sure you have 1/4" play in the throttle cables at the grip.
A partially open throttle at start up(item 2) or incoorrectly set tps (item 1) will cause the ecu to thin out the fuel mix on quick decel and stall.
~chilly
2) Make sure you have 1/4" play in the throttle cables at the grip.
A partially open throttle at start up(item 2) or incoorrectly set tps (item 1) will cause the ecu to thin out the fuel mix on quick decel and stall.
~chilly
Awesome thinking Chilly! :firstplace:
I did check all connections and wire leads...all was good. I added the pipes in 09' before she left the showroom so I never ran it with the stock set-up, though I never had this problem during the first season or two.
Thanks very much Chilly for the ideas as well. The throttle cable seems to be about perfect, so tommorow I will try resetting the TP in the PC-V. Is this the correct process for that...
1-Select Power Commander Tools Calibrate Throttle Position.
2-Verify the engine is running.
3-With the throttle closed, click Reset.
4-Fully open the throttle and close it. The open throttle value will be stored.
The open and closed number can be changed manually to fine tune.
5-Click OK
....Also, the map from the Dynotech site for a Raider with VH 2-1 is the best map to have I assume??
Thanks again for the help! Ill let ya know how it turns out. We have a few more days of record breaking warmth before its back to reality. :cheers:
Thanks very much Chilly for the ideas as well. The throttle cable seems to be about perfect, so tommorow I will try resetting the TP in the PC-V. Is this the correct process for that...
1-Select Power Commander Tools Calibrate Throttle Position.
2-Verify the engine is running.
3-With the throttle closed, click Reset.
4-Fully open the throttle and close it. The open throttle value will be stored.
The open and closed number can be changed manually to fine tune.
5-Click OK
....Also, the map from the Dynotech site for a Raider with VH 2-1 is the best map to have I assume??
Thanks again for the help! Ill let ya know how it turns out. We have a few more days of record breaking warmth before its back to reality. :cheers:
Well Chilly, you may be on to something...
I hooked up the PCV this morning to reset the TP. When first hooked up, the TP Minimum was at .645 and the max at 3.841. The sensor voltage was also at .645 The manual says "It is important that the PCV software TPS read 0% when the bike is fully warmed up and at idle". Fully warmed up at idle, my Sensor voltage is at .645, and I cant reset it or change it?
The Dynotech site said the TPS value should be zero after resetting "WHILE THE BIKE WAS AT IDLE", or manually entering the value. The owners manual says to "HIT RESET WITH THE ENGINE OFF" It wont let me do either?? Does this sound correct??
I tried to call Dynotech, but you have to fill out a form to get help?:lecturef_smilie: BS!!
I hooked up the PCV this morning to reset the TP. When first hooked up, the TP Minimum was at .645 and the max at 3.841. The sensor voltage was also at .645 The manual says "It is important that the PCV software TPS read 0% when the bike is fully warmed up and at idle". Fully warmed up at idle, my Sensor voltage is at .645, and I cant reset it or change it?
The Dynotech site said the TPS value should be zero after resetting "WHILE THE BIKE WAS AT IDLE", or manually entering the value. The owners manual says to "HIT RESET WITH THE ENGINE OFF" It wont let me do either?? Does this sound correct??
I tried to call Dynotech, but you have to fill out a form to get help?:lecturef_smilie: BS!!
Call 920 423 3309 That's Fuelmoto tech support, and see if they will help.
When I had my 08 it happened to me a few times too but only seemed to happen when I got on it I don't remember a warm day or not. It ended up being a loose kickstand that when really vibrated it would move down just enough to shut her down. Tightened it up with some Loctite I believe and it was fine after that. It,s possible this is happening to yours now too. Check it out
Hmmm.... mine has done that a couple of times too- worth a look.When I had my 08 it happened to me a few times too but only seemed to happen when I got on it I don't remember a warm day or not. It ended up being a loose kickstand that when really vibrated it would move down just enough to shut her down. Tightened it up with some Loctite I believe and it was fine after that. It,s possible this is happening to yours now too. Check it out
raider stalls
i fixed my stalling problem !! turns out a stupid little brass bushing in clutch lever was the problem.. total fix at shop $48,
After another unreal ride here in the UP of Michigan, on March 18th...with 80 degree air temps:lol:, I was reminded of an issue I was having last year and forgot about over the winter. I have an '09 Raider with VH 2-1 pipes and a PCV, nothing else(engine wise). This is an intermitent problem, but seems to happen more the warmer it is.
Either when cruising for an extended period of time at higher speeds down the highway and then having to stop quicker coming off the ramp, so I pull in the clutch to brake and downshift, and the bike stalls out. Or if I get on it and run it up through the gears fast once or twice, then just pull in the clutch after winding out a gear, she dies off and stalls, instead of dropping down to an idle. Always starts right back up and acts like nothing happened. I have come up to a stop sign after winding her out a bit, and had to actually keep it running with a touch of throttle or it would stall. Definatly seems to happen more after "beating" on her a bit...gently of course!
Its been doing this for over a year, and as I said, it dosn't do it all the time. I added the PCV last summer, thinking it may take that away...but it didn't. I just have the map from Dynotech for my bike/pipe combo, I belive this is the best?? I have NO good dealer anywhere near me to try to diagnose this...and I figured the welth of info on here, this was my best chance!
Any ideas?? :dontknow:
i fixed my stalling problem !! turns out a stupid little brass bushing in clutch lever was the problem.. total fix at shop $48,
Any pics to look itraider stalls i fixed my stalling problem !! turns out a stupid little brass bushing in clutch lever was the problem.. total fix at shop $48,
Last post was from Apr 2019 so don't hold your breath for an answer. But I'm hoping you do.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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