Lowering kit
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Performance Edge offers an air ride kit. Admittedly it's a little pricey, but for the price you get air-ride comfort, plus it also lets you adjust your ride height - top position is stock height. Components are top shelf and overall quality should be excellent.
Mortons customs offers a lowering kit, but it's a fixed height kit, basically you replace the dog-bones in the rear suspension - no adjustability.
Mortons customs offers a lowering kit, but it's a fixed height kit, basically you replace the dog-bones in the rear suspension - no adjustability.
Took the plunge with these folks ............. http://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs/raider.htm
Will report back with further details when parts arrive.
Will report back with further details when parts arrive.
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18 Posts
mortons kit lowers it 1 3/4 inches. .im gona air ride mine in the back an rake out farther wit triple trees the only reason i want 2 air ride is 2 keep the rake an trail. .i no wen u rake 5 degrees it has 2 lowered about 3inches 2 keep the sterring rite im jus wondering wit 7degrees how low u gota go....
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28 Posts
I lowered mine with the kit from Pacificcoaststar.com and it's pretty sweet. I know this sounds insane, but I think it rides better. I doubt my ole lady will be getting on the "get lucky pad" anytime soon though. I took it for a test ride over some pretty rough road and it never came close to bottoming out.
If someone would tell me how to put a picture on this forum, I'll post the before and after.
If someone would tell me how to put a picture on this forum, I'll post the before and after.
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326 Posts
got to photobucket.com start an account download your pics off your comp to that site then when your finished it will give you a url you highlight that then right click and select copy then come here and repley and select paste and when you post that it will be a link ;D
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220 Posts
PCS does a great job with thier stuff. Bought from them for my 1100 Custom.SS1 said:
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634 Posts
I've been thinking about air ride since before I bought my Raider, but my head is a little high in the clouds (and I acknowledge that). I've been wanting to have a bike that not only is air ride, but can drop all the way to the ground, so the bike sits the frame on the ground when parked, and then you can stand over it and lift it up to ride height, and then roll off. I know that'd really be a job for a truly high end custom shop, but until then, I am only about 5'3" or 5'4", and can operate my raider just fine, but am FULLY stretched out. I am trying to find somewhere/someone to get my controls brought back at me an inch and a half for incredibly improved comfort, but I still need to address the whole getting myself to stand flat-footed at a stop issue. For those of you who bought the pacificcoaststar.com air kit, you think it's a worthwhile investment till I have a few thousand dollars to make my dreams come true? I really think it might be the way to go, but I'm being a bit gun-shy, and just haven't pulled the trigger yet. Let me know what you think, thanks
-Jake
-Jake
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1,178 Posts
Jake -
Another option you can consider is the seat. Corbin provides a saddle called the Classic solo, which has a version called the "CLOSE" which actually moves you a little forward. The following is from their site:
"Close solo is designed to provide an easier reach to the bars. Additionally, the Close model is shaped narrower in the nose with a lower seating platform to provide an easier reach to the ground"
While Corbin saddles aren't cheap, this might be a less expensive alternative than an air-ride and/or having the controls moved
http://corbin.com/yamaha/yr8s.shtml
Another option you can consider is the seat. Corbin provides a saddle called the Classic solo, which has a version called the "CLOSE" which actually moves you a little forward. The following is from their site:
"Close solo is designed to provide an easier reach to the bars. Additionally, the Close model is shaped narrower in the nose with a lower seating platform to provide an easier reach to the ground"
While Corbin saddles aren't cheap, this might be a less expensive alternative than an air-ride and/or having the controls moved
http://corbin.com/yamaha/yr8s.shtml
Sorry for not posting sooner. Finally got the parts, the instructions totally suck and the pictures are worthless.
I started the project per the packaged info only to find out part way through the process that far more needs to be removed than they indicate. Fortunately had the service manual and my they missed the boat big time. I wondered if they ever actually put this kit in a Raider b4??
For starters the left horn and it's respective heat shield. The muffler. The rear brake cylinder & covers and the real big kicker, the rear shock assy front pivot bolt. Which I might add has to come out the right side. Very little room and very tight tolerances, so if attempting without assistance make sure the bike is rock solid stable.
My jack blocked the shock assy to the point where after close examination of all the peripheral parts that, either had to be loosened or removed. I decided to have the dealer do at the 600. He has to pull the exhaust to change the transfer case oil anyway.
Overall rating: Parts are very basic ......... instructions too generic, need to be more detailed for the bike they are destined for. Just because several bikes share a common component, doesn't mean they install identically. Kinda hard to get a hold of any body to answer questions, I got the AM most of the time, which in my book doesn't cut it. Took almost 2 weeks to get the parts due to a UPS computer glitch??? So not sure I'd buy from these folks again. Just MHO !!!!!
I started the project per the packaged info only to find out part way through the process that far more needs to be removed than they indicate. Fortunately had the service manual and my they missed the boat big time. I wondered if they ever actually put this kit in a Raider b4??
For starters the left horn and it's respective heat shield. The muffler. The rear brake cylinder & covers and the real big kicker, the rear shock assy front pivot bolt. Which I might add has to come out the right side. Very little room and very tight tolerances, so if attempting without assistance make sure the bike is rock solid stable.
My jack blocked the shock assy to the point where after close examination of all the peripheral parts that, either had to be loosened or removed. I decided to have the dealer do at the 600. He has to pull the exhaust to change the transfer case oil anyway.
Overall rating: Parts are very basic ......... instructions too generic, need to be more detailed for the bike they are destined for. Just because several bikes share a common component, doesn't mean they install identically. Kinda hard to get a hold of any body to answer questions, I got the AM most of the time, which in my book doesn't cut it. Took almost 2 weeks to get the parts due to a UPS computer glitch??? So not sure I'd buy from these folks again. Just MHO !!!!!
Same outfit, but without the benefit of your son>>>>> LOL
I spent 30 minutes disconnecting stuff only to find I couldn't remove the front pivot bolt without removing the exhaust. At that point I said screw it, I'll let the dealer do it at the 600.
I spent 30 minutes disconnecting stuff only to find I couldn't remove the front pivot bolt without removing the exhaust. At that point I said screw it, I'll let the dealer do it at the 600.
Hats the latest on istalling this kit youself? Anybody else tried it? If so how high off the ground did you have it when doing the work and how many sets of hands are needed? And while your at it if you don't mind how about some good instructions (pictures work too) if the ones that came with it are not worth a dang.
Tahanks,
chane30
Tahanks,
chane30
My first bike was a Suzuki Boulevard M50. I wanted it lowered. Put the 3" lowering kit on the bike.
Loved the way it looked when I'm not on it. Enjoyed riding too. Way too hard a ride on your back
with normal road cracks.
I suggest you look at your bike with your full body weight setting on it. That's what it looks like in the real world.
There isn't much suspension or spine protection on the Raider in my opinion. Rides much rougher than my 835lb
Vulcan Nomad 1600.
Best,
Nomadken
Loved the way it looked when I'm not on it. Enjoyed riding too. Way too hard a ride on your back
with normal road cracks.
I suggest you look at your bike with your full body weight setting on it. That's what it looks like in the real world.
There isn't much suspension or spine protection on the Raider in my opinion. Rides much rougher than my 835lb
Vulcan Nomad 1600.
Best,
Nomadken
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538 Posts
Talked to a lady at Mortons and she said they made her put a lowering kit on the raider to show how easy it was. She said it was a piece of cake to install. I did it on my old warrior and it is not a piece of cake! I don't know if I want to tackle it on this bike but I want it lowered so bad I can taste it!
Lowering kit: Update ...........
Weather has been so crappy in the midwest decided to do the install b4 the 600.
Still stand by my original comments about the poor instructions.
Also found too much paint in the dog bones where the pivot bolts go through so had to spend some time cleaning them out for proper fit. Don't forget to lube these real well b4 reinstalling.
Service manual helps, but if you have some basic mechanical skills & patience, I'm a little short in the patience department, things will come together.
Love the feel, dropped the seat height almost 2", have about 700mi since the install and know complaints. Ride isn't too stiff, as a matter of fact I left the shock setting exactly where it was from the factory. I ride primarily solo so individual comfort levels will vary.
Weather has been so crappy in the midwest decided to do the install b4 the 600.
Still stand by my original comments about the poor instructions.
Also found too much paint in the dog bones where the pivot bolts go through so had to spend some time cleaning them out for proper fit. Don't forget to lube these real well b4 reinstalling.
Service manual helps, but if you have some basic mechanical skills & patience, I'm a little short in the patience department, things will come together.
Love the feel, dropped the seat height almost 2", have about 700mi since the install and know complaints. Ride isn't too stiff, as a matter of fact I left the shock setting exactly where it was from the factory. I ride primarily solo so individual comfort levels will vary.
Just got done with the pacific coast star lowering kit with the progressive spring. I consider myself to average mechanically and it was a pain. Hats off to AFJack, 20 minutes man thats near impossible even with some help. I did mine by myself and found that after I removed the rear wheel that everything went relatively smooth. Lucky for me I already had my exhaust off, so I wasn't concerned about that.
If you plan to install this kit without any help, remove the rear wheel and the upper belt guard. This will allow you to pivot the swing arm without any weight to resist as you try to work the stock assembly out from under the bike. I also suggest that you make very sure the bike is supported and if possible strapped in place.
Another note: Somebody suggested turning the rear axle bolt around so the nut isn't hidden behind the exhaust. I have the Cobra Slashdowns and had to loosen them to adjust my belt tension a while back) While I was installing the lowering kit, I tried turning the bolt around. You can't do it unless you want the adjustment marks above the nut/bolt and your alignment make below it. What I'm trying to say is the left block has to stay on the left and the right on the right.
NJ, I'm almost done with the Cobra Slashdown modification. I'll post pics when I get everything done and the bike is all clean and shiny again.
Brian
If you plan to install this kit without any help, remove the rear wheel and the upper belt guard. This will allow you to pivot the swing arm without any weight to resist as you try to work the stock assembly out from under the bike. I also suggest that you make very sure the bike is supported and if possible strapped in place.
Another note: Somebody suggested turning the rear axle bolt around so the nut isn't hidden behind the exhaust. I have the Cobra Slashdowns and had to loosen them to adjust my belt tension a while back) While I was installing the lowering kit, I tried turning the bolt around. You can't do it unless you want the adjustment marks above the nut/bolt and your alignment make below it. What I'm trying to say is the left block has to stay on the left and the right on the right.
NJ, I'm almost done with the Cobra Slashdown modification. I'll post pics when I get everything done and the bike is all clean and shiny again.
Brian
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