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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While my pipes are off I need to do one thing that I wanted to do from day one. After making some very important calls to a couple of people who know more about customizing bikes then I, the conclusion was; they have to come off (Rear Disc Plate). This problem was very easy to fix.
I used a dremel tool with a sand disc to make two cuts across the Disc Plate to remove it. Took about (15 min.) super easy. Just make sure you cover as much of the rear end up as possible (saftey reasons)

Here are photos of the custom removal for those who are interested in doing it themselves and save the cost of a shop doing it. The links are three photos in step order, you will get the picture. Enjoy. :wave:

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1046.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1047.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1048.jpg
 

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Hey easy, Are there any safety or mechanical reasons not ot take that plate off? Does it serve a purpose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok Wa, to be perfectly honest with you everyone that I showed, or ask about that plate where not so sure about the importance of it. I ask a yamaha machanic (That seem to know what he was talking about)and a friend of mine that customisers very expensive bikes (30k and up) and they both say about the same thing, and also a couple of friends that have really nice custom bikes say take it off!!! we all understand about the little bit of cooling it does with the 360 vent rotation, but you will not see these things on any other type of bike, especially custom choppers or Harley's that are in the same weight and horsepower class.

Im giving it a try because the worst thing that can happen is you will go threw brake pads a little faster than average (maybe). If I decide it's a problem in the future I would change it out anyway to a chrome one.

P.S. More than 65% of your breaking comes from the two front Disc anyway. any questions about the project feel free to post me. :coolsmiley:
 

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Cool I am going to do it. I had the same idea as you. I would want a chrome one anyway.
 

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When you do this, you must cut all screws down about a 1/4"+ or they will not tighten down on rotor or use spacer. Worth the effort!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I used 2 5/16 stainless washers on each (6) screws.

"Don't forget to put "some type of liquid lock nut on each bolt."
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ao, once I took out all the (6)bolts that hold the plate and Disc, I moved it out on topside and wedged a wood shim between Brake Disc and plate. It only seperates them by about a 1" apart.

Then I carefully start cutting taking my time, I keep running the cutting disc over, and over the cut line with a little pressure on dremel tool. When it starts cutting through the plate and getting close to cut all the way through I lined my eyes over the plate (Vertical looking straight down) so I can see both sides of it. That kept me from getting to close to the Rear Disc.
Once you make the first cut through disc, move wood shim and rotate disc and do the opposite side same way. Disc wiil fall rightoff after second cut. When finish cutting you will notice metal dust all over the back wheel I recommend blowing it clean like I did, you don't want to rub that metallic dust off.
I own a small blower I bought on Ebay for blow drying your bike off after washing it. (works great and small) if you don't have that type use a weed blower from your garden shed. :icon10:
 

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I went to auto parts store and bought chrome valve cover hold downs in the shiny section. They came in a pack of 8, enough to do all 3 rotors if you by two packs. 6 on the back wheel and 5 x 2 rotors on front. These are the standard hold downs and the rotor screw is a PERFECT fit through hole, no slop. Do not cut screws as I stated earlier, the threads don't bottom out. It's the shank that bottoms out.
 

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AF - Those pipe ends look mighty interesting - what are you keeping from the rest of us? :DirtDOG:

OH - just saw the other post, sorry about that :eek: - very cool....

..And to both of you - nice work on the rotors. The hold downs are a cool touch.
 

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Big Easy said:
While my pipes are off I need to do one thing that I wanted to do from day one. After making some very important calls to a couple of people who know more about customizing bikes then I, the conclusion was; they have to come off (Rear Disc Plate). This problem was very easy to fix.
I used a dremel tool with a sand disc to make two cuts across the Disc Plate to remove it. Took about (15 min.) super easy. Just make sure you cover as much of the rear end up as possible (saftey reasons)

Here are photos of the custom removal for those who are interested in doing it themselves and save the cost of a shop doing it. The links are three photos in step order, you will get the picture. Enjoy. :wave:

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1046.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1047.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1048.jpg
Hey Easy, In these pics of yours, are the bolts in or not. If not do you have a pic with them in, I would like to see how it looks with the washers on it. Thanks
 

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Big Easy, my bike looks better with this mod. Thanks for posting the pics and the how to. :beer2:

AFJack, great tip on the valve cover hold downs, stopped by my local parts store and they had them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hello Wa, and all. In the photos above the bolts and washers are not mounted. Below they are in. I hope the picture links below gives you a better view of rear disc and bolts. I do not recommend cutting bolts because of the high risk of stripping threads inside of wheel hub. The washers look clean. I still have to polish out the disc brake (Not where the pads rub) and I'm currently looking for Chrome replacement bolts to replace the (6)Disc bolts.
Those who see it in person say it looks much cleaner and blends better with the theme of the bikes look.

P.S. The Cobra Swepts are finially installed and I highly reccommend them to all. At first I was concerned about the lenghts, but the more I look, hear, and ride them, I seemed to be appreciating them even more. (Installation of my Swepts) took a few hours to install taking my time. I had a hard time trying to remove the baffles, "so they stayed in for now." The pipes are A+++ up gradefrom the stocks, and I didn't even get a chance to install my PC-3 yet.

Have a good day, ride safe and enjoy the photos below of my upgrades. :wave:
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1062.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/DSCN1061.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm48/SeeyaQQ/RearWheel01.jpg
 

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I've sorta resurrected this thread because I found out some information from the Guys at Performance Edge. My rear disc plate (late decision on my part) will not be ready at the same time as the other "stuff".... but... PE said that we can use the front rotor bolts from an R1, R6 or Warrior on the rear rotor. They are the correct length.
 
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My Dealer, Coyote Motorsports in Denver doesn't even put those covers on.
They agree it's unnecessary and look awful. My bike came without it and it was in a crate when I bought it.
They assembled it for me.



Coyote is the best Yamaha dealer in Colorado! They are the ONLY Yamaha/Star ONLY dealer in the state!
They don't sell anything except Yamaha/Star!
A Shout out to Mike E. and a big thank you!!!!
http://coyotemotorsports.com/

They also do some awesome Custom Raiders! Custom paint, pipes, chrome wheels, etc!
 

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Ok... I just talked to "Yamaha USA".

As suspected, it's purpose is to dissipate heat. They also said that chroming it would actually make the plate lose some of it's properties and make it less effective.

So.... I say "chunk it".... and use the front rotor bolts from an R1, R6 or Warrior.
 

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mine has been gone for over 400 miles and no problems to report here.
 
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