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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, tonight I began the project of changing out the Raider handlebars.
My first thought was to make riser blocks for the existing risers.
After looking over the wire length that is available I am seriously thinking about trying the VTX 1800 C handlebars
since they are very close to the Raiders with the exception that they offer 7" more pull back.
If that 7 additional inches will help me ride more comfortably then I'm changing them.
It does appear that I will need new cables and hoses. Anyone changed out their hoses yet?
I need advice on where to buy new ones and how to order them.
Any help would be appreciated.
I really don't want to cut and chop wires. My plan is to use the added length that exists and go with that
providing I can find bars that will work.
As I do this I will let you all know because I know there are folks out there needing more pullback.

Best,

Ken
 

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Nomadken said:
...Well, tonight I began the project of changing out the Raider handlebars...
Hey Ken,

When you do ths can you take/post photos either here or on Raider Performance? I want to change my bars/risers, but am concerned that all the connectors for the handlebar switch cables will have to be removed to get the cable out of the handlebars, and I guess this wil require a special tool?

Cheers, Scooter.
 

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Ken,
You said "I really don't want to cut and chop wires. My plan is to use the added length that exists and go with that
providing I can find bars that will work." So how much added length is there? Even if there is the added length you'd still need to desolder wires from the grip areas or at least pull the pins from the plugs...Also, the added pullback is 5" and not 7" as you mentioned. I got my front brake lines and clutch line (only getting clutch line from junction on frame where hard line meets soft line) from here http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=YA2879-2FCH. I haven't ordered the throttle cables yet but someone on the delphi forum indicated that http://www.performanceedge.us/ has the throttle cables and I'll be calling them later today..
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
retgi said:
Ken,
You said "I really don't want to cut and chop wires. My plan is to use the added length that exists and go with that
providing I can find bars that will work." So how much added length is there? Even if there is the added length you'd still need to desolder wires from the grip areas or at least pull the pins from the plugs...Also, the added pullback is 5" and not 7" as you mentioned. I got my front brake lines and clutch line (only getting clutch line from junction on frame where hard line meets soft line) from here http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=YA2879-2FCH. I haven't ordered the throttle cables yet but someone on the delphi forum indicated that http://www.performanceedge.us/ has the throttle cables and I'll be calling them later today..
Pete


Hey Pete,
I wrote it wrong. It's 5" additional pullback not 7. The current bars have 7 and the new ones will have 12. I think you brought that info to the forum first that I read.
Also, were you the one who determined the VTX bars are the best fit? Thanks.
I did see this list on Flanders.
I have purchased a new pair on Ebay just today for $35.00. These should be in by end of week.
I found that the wires are about 4" longer with no cutting. I plan to order new cables and hoses for a 4-5" added length required
just guessing at this point and then tear the bike down.
I'll chase down your leads on cables and hoses. Thanks much.

I will document Scooter and let you all know.
In fact if you don't mind, private email me your phone numbers and or personal emails and we can work on this as a group and bring it back to the forum.

My phone is 217-621-1158 (cell) and my email is [email protected] or [email protected]

Thanks much,

Ken
 

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question - knurled or smooth???

I am curious, I have a set of pull back/riser bars (for Harley I think) that I want to put on my Raider. Problem is they are smooth. Do the new bars have to be knurled or can I make the smooth bars work? Any tricks to use smooth bars in a knurled set-up?
 

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Anyone know the specs on the stock handlebar?

Width?
Pullback?
Rise?
Center?
 

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handlebars

cant remember where these specs came from, you might doublecheck? Stop bars are 1" dia 3" hgth 32 wdth 7" pullback 7.5" cntrlne clamp area is 6" one piece, risers are 5.5" hgth with 4" pullback. check flanders website they list all specs, stock and their #s
 

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About re-routing cables and hoses...

who said the clutch/brake cables had to go Over the upper triple tree.--Re-Route behind.
jlm205, did you do this and does it work out ok? I am looking at having to re-route the clutch/brake lines and the throttle cables behind the triple tree. Looks like there is enough clearance when forks are fully turned both left and right. I would much prefer this to having to change out all of the cables and hoses to longer ones.
 

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I just read your question and I have not done this, but gostr8r has and it looks pretty easy to do and looks to work just fine. If you do not get any other responses maybe pm gostr8r. He has the 'z' bars.
 

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Guys

I have just purchased these bars for my partners Raider!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yama...4472904QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I am looking into un-cliping the wires from the connectors at the switch ends, so I can pull wiring back through the handlebars. Then push wires back through the new bars and re-connect.

I would have expected to buy longer brake lines and all cables, but perhaps I can still use the cables by re-routing under the or behind the triple trees!

Any advice or suggestions would be helpful as I won't be starting this small project until after Christmas now.

Good Luck to those changing their bars as it may be a small challenge.
 

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question about wiring

I am mid way - looks like re-routing cables and hoses behind triple tree will work well. I haven't removed the wiring from the old bars yet. One question... Ken said there is 4" of wire - no need for cutting. It does appear the length is sufficient but are the connectors (from tank end) small enough to pass through the bars or can you release the connector pins from the connectors and pull the wires? These are the only two options I see without cutting and re-splicing the wires.
 

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I am mid way - looks like re-routing cables and hoses behind triple tree will work well. I haven't removed the wiring from the old bars yet. One question... Ken said there is 4" of wire - no need for cutting. It does appear the length is sufficient but are the connectors (from tank end) small enough to pass through the bars or can you release the connector pins from the connectors and pull the wires? These are the only two options I see without cutting and re-splicing the wires.

trscott

Although I haven't started yet, I was planning to release the connector pins from the connectors and pass the wies through the bars. If the connectors go through the bars without the need to do this, its a result for sure.

Interested to see what the other guys say who have done this?
 

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Wires out okay, now the grips?

I got the wires out - the slotted holes in the bars are large enough to slip the tank connectors through so no wire cutting or pin release necessary.

Now for the grips - I was planning to put the stock grips back on the new bars. If I do, I will need to grind the weld, drill a weld hole for each, and weld the vibration dampener weights into the new bars. Any words of wisdom before I start? Thanks.
 

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I got the wires out - the slotted holes in the bars are large enough to slip the tank connectors through so no wire cutting or pin release necessary.

Now for the grips - I was planning to put the stock grips back on the new bars. If I do, I will need to grind the weld, drill a weld hole for each, and weld the vibration dampener weights into the new bars. Any words of wisdom before I start? Thanks.
I put flanders classics #1 b3's on mine, too high to just reroute wires and cables, so I cut and spliced wires, and will be adding plus 6" cables. I drilled out old bar ends and ruffed them up alot then jb welded them back in, it worked real well, did this so I could use my throttle miester again. Here is some pics of work in progress. First pic is before,second is after, still need cables and tank put back on. These are 9" high, 9" pullback, 35.5' wide, and 9" center, this is just what I had been wanting all along. They feel great!!! It was a big job for sure, but really not that hard, just very time consuming, 5 hours of cutting splicing and soldering.
 

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nice mod

Nice addition to your ride - those bars look good. Mine are not so much higher but will be much closer allowing me to sit back a little and enjoy my Mustang seat w/driver's backrest and the Kuraykan "X-tension" foot pegs I added (they mount on the front up-frame tubes and were not designed for the Raider but with a 2-inch chrome spacer and longer bolt to extend them further out, they work well). I've got the bar end weights welded into place and I'm getting ready to install the bars. I'll try to post some before and after pics in case anyone is interested.
 

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Job Complete!

Here's a quick summary of the handlebar change out:


  • New handlebars – Biker's Choice Miler Smooth Handlebar (6-1/2” pullback, 4” rise). This bar puts the grips about 4-5” closer to the rider.
  • Re-routed the brake and clutch lines behind the triple tree with no problems.
    Throttle and idle cables worked in their original position.
  • The slotted holes in the stock bar allow the wiring harness connectors to slip through without cutting or releasing pin connectors. I found enough extra wiring length to handle these bars – no need for adding/splicing wires. I removed the gas tank and unplugged all the wires and pulled them through the bars.
  • Using duct tape, I overlaid the three slotted holes on the stock bar (the center hole and one at each of the switch housings) and then cut out the holes in the tape. I used these tape templates and placed them where I wanted to transfer the holes. I drilled a 9/16” at each end of slot and then used an angle grinder w/cutting wheel and a Dremmel (for the smaller ones). I also drilled the pilot holes for the switch housings.
  • I removed the bar-end weights from the stock bar by grinding out the spot weld. I drilled a hole in a similar location as the spot weld (in the new bar) and tack welded the weights in place.
  • Since the new bar I selected wasn’t knurled, I “stimpled” the bar using a center punch by slightly deforming the bar to prevent slippage.
 

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how about a pic?
 

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looks good. worth the time and effort involved?
 
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