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I see i have to do this at the 600 mile maintenance mark according to the owners manual. How do i go about? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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From another thread!

I just hit my 600 mile mark on my raider and now its time for the dreaded gear oil
change .
I heard from every one that the pipes must be removed , thats not true i just did mine
and it was easy ,
first off what drain plugs are what , the drain plug is on the side of thetransfer case
hidden behind that ulgy foil crap , so use some pliers and unclip the zip ties,
the drain plug is a t-40 torx,
next is the fill plug this is the big silver plug on the side to remove this i used a
10mm allen that i cut to about 1 1/2 inch and i used a 10mm wrench to turn
now for the little level plug this is the allen bolt under the big fill plug i used a 1/4 inch
socket with a allen made for my drill gun .
so dont remove your pipes . drain the transfer case and plug it back up
now fill with .58 quart sae80 api gl-4 hypoid gear oil (per the owners manual)
fill in the big hole untill the little fill level hole starts to drip .
please pass on this info .
 

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Forget about it. Take it to the shop. It will only set you back about $120 to $180. I personally want the dealer to take all responsibility, and the chances are they will to a god job.

VB
 

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I bought a high quality synthetic gear oil, costs about $15.00. Spent 15 minutes or so doing the gear oil. I did this when I was changing my pipes, so it was real easy. This service is very easy to do and will save you a nice little chunk of change to spend on some bling. Do it yourself if you have some tools and are just a touch mechanically inclined. I follow the instructions that eian posted from another thread. Good luck

Brian
 

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Very good post Eian but one thing I would like to add. Bike is supposed to be vertical not on the side stand. :wave: :wave:
 

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I've found the torx drain plug on the side, but I also noticed another hex head bolt on the bottom of the transfer case near the torx plug. The casting extends the bolt fairly low- so wouldn't that be the drain plug?
 

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As AO says the only one with the brass washer. It is directly behind that foil crap!
 

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hi im thinking about changing my own oil,and transfer case oil.
i found all the drain plugs except for the big silver plug to fill the
transfer case and the little fill holes.the big silver plug,is that the one
right behind the exhaust pip
 

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Here is a pic of what you are looking for. The fill plug is the one on the top, and the level plug right below it.
 

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It wasn't to bad, the biggest thing with my pipes was the drain plug was a pain in the a$$ to get to. For you guys with factory exhaust i think the trickiest part will be the fill plug. As mentioned earlier in the thread you can use an allen that you cut down and then turn it with a wrench.
 

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Yes to drain the engine oil there are 3 drain plugs. The oil tank
and the 2 crankcases

As far as pouring it in easy...................Well.............................Umm yeah I bought a funnel with a realy long spout on it and it can get way into places and I bet it would work in this case as well. It is what I used, but when I did mine I had my slashdowns on so it was a whole different test all together. Try it out and let us know how you fair.
 

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I just did the change this weekend. I found it easier than changing the engine oil.

The drain plug is on the left side behind the heat tape. You'll need to cut the tie-straps on the ends of the tape, but not the two straps in the middle. The middle straps (they are wider) have a small release lever so they can be reused.

After removing the straps, unravel the tape and tuck it out of the way. You'll have easy access to the drain plug. I use a T-40 torx T-handle and it was a breeze. After draining, do the reverse to get the plug in and heat tape back to starting.

To fill you'll need a 10mm allen wrench to remove the fill plug (if it can't clear the pipe as was my case, then you'll need to cut the allen wrench down a bit with a high speed cutter). Below the fill plug is the inspection plug that also uses an allen head wrench. A T-handle works best to remove this.

I bought one of those $9 marine lower unit filling pumps at Wal-Mart to do the filling. It fits right into the gear oil bottle and made filling a cinch. Once gear lube starts coming out of the inspection hole (with the bike upright) you're done- just put it back together and go change the oil.
 

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oil change & final drive

did the 600 mile oil change today. not too bad. i think you really have to get the bike upright - which i did with ratchet straps and J hooks in my ceiling. the 3 drains are all 17mm. the two crank i got at with a 12pt. closed end - 6 inch. nothing longer will work. came off pretty easy. the oil tank is a 17mm socket - very easy (after locating). i dabbed them all bright red - it will be easy next time. i used my trusty old rotella t as a refill - i will let you know if i have problems.
tomorrow i tackle the tranny. i hear all this about grinding down sockets and it makes me nervous, but i think i can do it -- i know i can!
 

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trans change

with a few beers under me - i removed the heat shields and got at the fill plug damn easy. i was relieved, so i'll leave well enough alone for tonight. i know i can get the drain, and i'm not worried about the level plug - might just measure the proper amount going in and forget about that thing. think it's .58 of a quart of sae80 - plug it all back up, and i'm off to the races.
 
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