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Anybody try to adjust their final drive belt? The side with the belt looks easy enough to reach the adjuster bolt, but the side near the exhaust looks a little tight. Does the exhaust need to come off for this or will putting on a stand give it enough clearance to reach the axle bolt and adjuster?
 

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I haven't done this myself. Removing the rear section of the exhaust will make the adjustment much easier. I've read of people doing it by loosening the exhaust but removing the back portion is easy and will probably save you some aggravation. You will need a tool to properly check the belt tension.
 

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110 ft-lb
 

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The rear section of the exhaust (if stock) must be removed. Heat shield (5 bolts) support brackest (loosen the two on the rear section of the exhaust on the inside, with an allen wrench, completely remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the frame, underside) Loosen the exhaust clamp, remove the upper support allen bolt in the rear peg bracket. Wiggle and turn the exhaust as you pull off rearward. Loosen the axle and adjuster nuts. Count the number of marks where the belt sits, multiply each of these by .2 Apply 10 pounds of pressure against the underside of the belt in the view window, and then count theses marks as well, multiply the m by .2 also. Subtract the first measurement from the second one. The sub total should fall into the range of .30-5.1 Of course use the adjusters to correct an out of range value
 

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I wish it were that simple. The reason for the window and notch method, is that over time a belt,as it wears,will hang down lower when not depressed. It will also give more when the 10 pounds of upward pressure is applied. Otherwise the manual would just indicate 1\2 to 3\4 inch play, like a chain does. If I had to guess, I would stick with 1\2 inch play with about 10 pounds of pressure applied up and down.
 
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