t-case service explained with pics

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Thread: t-case service explained with pics

  1. #1
    Senior Member savage25xtreme's Avatar
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    Default t-case service explained with pics

    tools required:
    6 pack of beer
    the end of a 10mm hex key cut to 1 inch long
    t-40 torq bit
    10mm wrench
    5mm hex key (i think this is the size)
    3/8th inch ID fuel hose


    start by removing the big silver fill plug shown here:

    use the 10mm wrench and 10mm piece of hex key

    next remove the drain shown here behind the exhaust and heat wrap:

    this is the t-40 torq bit...becareful not to lose the brass washer that seals the bolt. once this is removed drain well by holding the bike over on that side.

    while the gear lube is draining remove the level indicating bolt shown here:

    this is a normal size hex key... i think 5mm. if you have socket hex keys and long extension and ratchet makes this quick work.

    once its done draining put the bottom plug back in and put about a 1 foot piece of 3/8ths fuel hose on the end of your lube bottle and with the bike held level (preferably by a cute blonde) shown here:

    fill the t-case until lube comes out the level hole... the owners manual says this should take .58 qts but mine took more like .75 qts for whatever reason.

    put the fill plug and level plug back in and enjoy your ride.

    Ride it like you stole it

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  3. #2
    Veteran Member eian31's Avatar
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    Default Re: t-case service explained with pics

    Very nice write up on the tranfer case change! I was right with ya until the last pic and then I forgot what this post was about!! :icon10:
    PE Chrome Wheels/Hub/Pulley, 240 Avon Cobra Rear Tire, Oops "Snake" Front Fender, Cobra Slashdown Exhaust, 3" Forward Control Extension, Kuryakyn Chrome Levers/Caliper Covers/Master Cylinder Covers/Zombie Pegs/Zombie Brake and Shift Pegs/Turn Signal Mirrors/ISO Grips/Throttle Boss, PE Side Plate Mount, Webslinger Speedo Cover, Image Dynamics Integrated Tailight, Rear Fender Clean up, Decal Removal, Chrome Tank strip removal, Suction Cup Rear Seat, LED Light Kit, Stainless Cables and Lines

  4. #3

    Default Re: t-case service explained with pics

    Not to get off topic but exactly what backrest is that? Is it a quick detach? I like it and my girl would REALLY appreciate it!!

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  6. #4
    Veteran Member NHRAIDER's Avatar
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    Default Re: t-case service explained with pics

    Me likey. How often should you change the gear oil? I am sure it was done at the 600mi service but I just pased 3k and changed the oil to synthetic.
    We should all start trying our best here. http://www.madeinusa.com/?action=showd&page=home

  7. #5
    Senior Member savage25xtreme's Avatar
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    Default Re: t-case service explained with pics

    that is the cobra mini backrest and it and the luggage rack will be for sale (at a good discount) when I get my quick detach rest in from yamaha.

    i went with 75W-90 synthetic at my 600 mile and I will change it whenever the manual says to do so. I switched to mobile 15W-50 synthetic oil and 75W-90 synthetic gear lube.... very happy with both.
    Ride it like you stole it

  8. #6
    Veteran Member Rob06's Avatar
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    Default Re: t-case service explained with pics

    NHRAIDER, Im betting savage25xtreme changes that oil 2x a day.....

    savage25xtreme, with all respect bro

    thanks for the write-up :thumbup:
    HK Sideburners w/cobraFi2000R/CD tail light/L&M Spoiler/ Old Dominion Customs F.Fender/
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  9. #7
    Senior Member savage25xtreme's Avatar
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    Default Re: t-case service explained with pics

    LOL no prob just trying to make it easier for the next guy by answering a few of the questions i had.
    Ride it like you stole it

  10. #8
    Member LinerLover's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks Savage. I changed my oil today (600) but could not figure out the transfer case details. My manual just says it needs it--not how to do it.

    I will try tomorrow and I expect success due to your helpful post.
    "Let us so live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry." Mark Twain

  11. #9
    Contributor SuperSteve's Avatar
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    Default

    Savage,

    Great write-up. I used your How-To along with the service manual to change my transfer case oil. It was too easy. My bike took the same amount of oil as yours did: 3/4s of a quart; Amsoil Synthetic 75W/90W. Thanks alot Brotha.

  12. #10
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    Does anybody know what that little hole on the fill cap is for?

  13. #11
    Senior Member savage25xtreme's Avatar
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    Default

    Glad I could help guys. The hole? Are you talking about that blue dot? I think that's a marker mark from the assembly line guys noting it has been filled and or tightened.
    Ride it like you stole it

  14. #12
    Senior Member Defender Bob's Avatar
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    Default

    once its done draining put the bottom plug back in and put about a 1 foot piece of 3/8ths fuel hose on the end of your lube bottle and with the bike held level (preferably by a cute blonde) shown here:
    I think we are missing the picture that goes with this step. Its kinda hard to figure this one out without the example!

  15. #13
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    Default Blue Dot

    Go figure I checked, and looked close last knight and did I feel like an A#$ it was the blue dot. In my defense I do where glasses. At 600 mi. I am going to change the trans oil any suggestions. I here the breaking pros & Cons for mineral base oils so any good suggestion will be appreciated.

  16. #14
    Senior Member savage25xtreme's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Defender Bob View Post
    I think we are missing the picture that goes with this step. Its kinda hard to figure this one out without the example!
    when my girlfriend saw that pic on the internet I got struck in the back of the head very hard... decided to take it off haha.... its the same as my avatar but full sized...

    raider1958... Im a fan of Amsoil products. but that is just me. you could probably put supertech walmart crap in there and never have a problem in 100k miles....
    Ride it like you stole it

  17. #15
    Contributor B&S raider's Avatar
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    Default transfer case

    hey savage thanks for posting this info just done mine today and though those bolts are a paint with the pipes on its always better than having to pay someone to do it

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    savage, i feel your pain with the painful hit to the back of the head, i have a few similar pictures of my wife with the raider, and needless to say she doesn't get real excited when she see's it online. Oh and great pictures/instructions made the oil change a breeze.

  19. #17
    Member LinerLover's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks again Savage,
    I did get the t-case oil changed. My dealer's mechanic was no help . The way he described it you would have thought he had never seen the bike before. I guess he just wanted to make the money on the job himself.

    Couldn't have done it without you!!
    Chris
    "Let us so live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry." Mark Twain

  20. #18

    Default

    I took my bike in for its 600 mile change and they didn't even know that the bike had a transfer case and they did not change the gear oil, I ended up changing it myself. After the first 600 mile change, I think you don't have to change it again for 5 to 10 K miles. When I changed mine, I went back with AMSOIL full synthetic gear oil, don't know if its any better, but been running synthetic in my trucks for years with no problems.

  21. #19
    Senior Member RaiderDave's Avatar
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    All I have to say is: Savage, you da man! I was scared at first doing my fluid change, but your tips helped tremendously! Thanks man!
    To mod or not to mod....Now that is a stupid question!?!?!?!

  22. #20
    Veteran Member Matt St. John's Avatar
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    Awesome, I'm gonna take care of my own 600 mile servicing. Screw paying a shop 200+ to do something like this. Just 320 miles left on break in.

  23. #21
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    You can use the head of a 1" 6mm bolt, which is 10mm for removing the fill hole if you don't have any 10mm hex laying around. Just put two nuts on it and jam them together, then you can use that as a little tool to remove and tighten.

    Excellent write up. I didn't have a blonde so I had to use the bike jack instead, not nearly as interesting but got the job done.
    83, 84, 86 V65 Magna, yes they all run
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    Smile Thanks

    BY THE MEANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS IT WAS VERY SIMPLE FOR NOVICE MOTORCYCLE MECHANIC. THANKS FROM THE ISLAND OF PUERTO RICO.

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    Ok I get it that is the fill "level plug". Fill till spills from this hole and then put back. Saw a post where if you don't use this as level and fill to "fill plug" extra comes out some small port and gets all over the tire. Beware

  26. #24
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    Default Can't find drain the gear oil drain screw!!!!

    NEVER MIND............Found the screw. Had to cut the tie-wraps that covers the tin foil below the exhaust pipes. T-40 scew was hidden behind the foil that protects the rubber hoses from the heat of the exhaust.- Thanks


    Sorry guys, I thought I was mechanically inclined but apparently not as well as I thought. I have a 2011 Raider S and I just changed the oil at 400 miles. The bike is about 5 months old. I attempted to drain the gear oil, removed the small T-20 screw and nothing drained when I leaned the bike over. Also, I cannot find a T-40 screw! Can someone please help me? I took a bunch of pictures of the area of my bike that is supposed to have a T-40 screw but there isn't one.

    Thanks guys/girls.
    Last edited by rjdesi; 02-11-2012 at 09:34 PM.

  27. #25
    Veteran Member busajack's Avatar
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    Default


    Mobll 1 Drip.

    Down load the service manual it has picts.
    I have to grow old but I don't have to grow up.

  28. #26
    Veteran Member Beethoven's Avatar
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    Default

    Hey - I did the first steps, but the pic for the last step is gone? Now what do I do????

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