Oil change time again
OK just finished the oil change and have stopped cursing! I HATE those two crancase bolts. Is there a way to lift the bike and keep tha area free so you could use a proper wrench? Has anybody tried chains to the peg mounts and a block and tackle? There has gotta be a better way. Suggestions?
Block and tackle - hmmm, if I had one and a ceiling to fix it to, that'd be an idea.
I use 2x4 pieces about 24" long or so. Stack a few, I think 3, then slide them under bike frame.
As the bike is on sidestand, you will be able to fit another short one on the right side.
Take another short one and take bike off sidestand and it will rest on the right board.
Then slip the last piece under the left side.
There you have it, a way to hold the bike level and allow better access to the bolts.
You may have to try a different box end wrench or buy a cheapie from Harbor Freight and cut it shorter.
Of my 2 box end wrenches, one works and one doesn't because the gripping edges are a wee different and the wrench arm hits.
I've got a top quality shorty, but I want to use my 10" so I can "feel" how much I am torquing it. Manual says 43 NM but how can you get a torque wrench in there? Call me stupid, but those bolts could have been on the bottom somewhere in the first place! In the 60's I lost an oil plug on a 500 beemer on a superslab -not nice - my buddy behind me thought it was raining! Yes - I could see bags of money with wings flying away!
And yes - I will try the 2x4 trick next time thanks!
Wall Mounts
I am thinking of a set of hooks in the wall, like bike hanging hooks into studs, and then using my tie down straps to hold the bike upright from where the bar clamps are on the triple tree. Since I have a one car garage, the straps will easily reach the walls. What do you all think?
2009 Raider S black 0 miles on July 27 2012 (new to me!)
LoJack installed (boring mod) and fixed backrest. Next up: working on picking a windshield.
It is all about the journey and not the destination.
I do a lot of my own stuff. But oil change I let dealer mess with. Lot quicker and no cussing . I no longer craw around under my car either. Just not worth the hassle, anymore. Guess that comes with old age.
Tires ( I buy on line) and oil change are now dealer done.
I recently was going to pull the rear wheel off of my Honda 650 dirtbike to see if I could get the tire changed on short notice. I was thinking about jacking it up in my trailer and using the straps like I would for when I tow it. Has anyone ever tried that with a Raider? I'm not sure a trailer floor could handle the weight of a Raider on a jack since the weight would be all in the small area of a jack.Originally Posted by Return to Riding
I ended up not doing it because it was hot and I didn't feel like doing it in such a small, closed area. Instead, I took the bike in to the dealer. Freaking $99 to change a dirtbike tire?
Like others, I just let the Yamaha mechs do my oil changes, etc. I had it in for one last year and the service rep came out and asked me, "Did you do your last change because the drain plug is stripped?" I said that I don't dare for that reason. They covered the repair.
"You, me, or nobody is gonna hit as hard as life. But it ain't about how hard ya hit. It's about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward. How much you can take and keep moving forward. That's how winning is done!" - Rocky
Oil change
I just got my SCL's oil changed today. The mechanic was also cussing those things and how difficult it is to just get to the drain bolts. I'm not sure why Yamaha/Star makes it so difficult to do except it is kind of like the fact that we old "shade tree mechanics" used to be able to work on our cars, but the technology, etc has kind of put a stop to that....at any rate, the dealer did a great job on my bike but did have to charge me for about an hour's ($60) worth of labor. I'll admit, though, there is no way I would try it myself any more. Maybe I'm just getting old, but I don't feel like fighting this kind of stuff anymore. I just want to ride. I know that this rant is not really helpful from a mechanical point of view, but I do understand your pain and frustration.....it's only money anyway isn't it?? LOL
DrJohn
Working on my ride
I've always done all the work on my bikes (I owned Nortons so I couldn't afford not to) and do so with any modifications done to my Raider but... I do leave oil changes to the dealership because of the drain plug problems that some on this forum have encountered. I purchase tires, parts, oil and filters from the dealer (15% discount on parts and labour) and I'm not saying I'd run into the same trouble but if there was a boo boo I'd rather them pick up the tab for repairs as opposed to saving a half hour labour cost. It's just my humble opinion.
cheers
Soupie :-)
Always drink upstream from the herd and remember, wherever you go...there you are.
Oil Change
You're right - there's not a lot of room between the bottom of the engine and the floor!! I use a car floor jack near the rear of the motor (cross-member) to jack the rear end and motor up about another 6". Then there's plenty of room to get at the drain bolts! I usually leave the bike on the side stand, and put some wood spacers under the side stand as I'm lifting with the floor jack. Since the two main drain bolts are on the kickstand side, a slight lean toward that side allows the oil to drain just fine. The resevoir drain seems to drain well also (just make sure your floor jack is far enough back that you don't block the resevoir drain - did that once!).
Now that I have the technique down, changing the oil is a relatively easy task!
I have a nice lift, but I find that the lift cradle covers the front drain bolt so it is impossible to get in there. There is a small range, front to back, where the cradle can touch evenly at four points. If you can do them with yours, maybe I should try and find one like it.
It can Be Done
I have the exact lift in the pic & yes you can get to all three drain plugs with one position. Need to align before lifting or as we say find the sweet spot & your in!!
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