Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding

[Kev's UK Raider S]

As I have just changed my partners Raider handlebars last week-end, and encountered several issues (to be told on the forum when job completed, with pics to follow)

I am awaiting replacement Brake Lines at the moment, but can anyone tell me how I bleed the Clutch???

I have managed, for now to use the original clutch line, but I disconnected the line at the master cylinder end, hence losing some fluid.

I now expect that air is now in the system, but I have never had an hydraulic clutch before, hence the questions.

Is there a bleed nipple at the slave end or what?

There must be answers how to do this, and how do you know it is OK, and is not slipping or not engaging fully?

Any help is appreciated.

[levig14]

You shouldn't need to worry about slipping, as even if you dont get all of the air out, your problem will be that the clutch does not fully disengage. There is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, on the Raider it would be beneath your right thigh while sitting on the bike. The easiest way i have found is with a vaccuum pump, simply put the hand pump on the bleeder, open the bleeder and pump some vaccuum, oh yah and make sure you are keeping an eye on the reservoir, cuz it will disappear out of there pretty quickly, once you notice solid fluid coming out of the bleeder with no bubbles tighten the bleeder and top off the reservoir. If you dont have access to a vaccuum bleeder there are several other ways, you will just have to decide which one you think works the best. In the past I have found clutches to be especially tricky to get bled out, but there is 2 methods i have used with success. The first is a little rude and crude but works fairly well, make sure the reservoir is clear full of fluid, open the bleeder enough to get some fluid flow, and put your finger over the tip of the bleeder, as you squeeze the clutch handle release the pressure of your finger over the bleeder allowing air/fluid out, but you must remember to seal it back off before you get the clutch handle completely stroked out. With your finger over teh bleeder release the handle back to the home position, and repeat several times until you get all fluid with no air bubbles or pops/splatters. Once you get to that point with your finger still over the tip of the bleeder tighten the screw back up, check the level in the reservoir and give the clutch a pull and see how it feels, it should engage pretty quickly, and be smooth and consistant all the way through the pull. Now option 3, I have used this on many different bikes/cars it is what i like to call a poor mans "one man bleeder" typically i have used this when i could not reach the bleeder from the location to actuate the master cylinder. The setup is, top off the master cylinder, find a small piece of clear vinyl hose (available at any hardware store) just long enough to reach from the bleeder screw to the ground. open the bleeder screw and slide the hose over the bleeder, and drop the other end into a clear container filled with brake fluid(i usually cut the bottom off of an old water bottle etc..) but make sure you leave enough quantity in your bottle for extra fluid, and proceed to pump the master cylinder, you will need to continually add fluid to the cylinder. What you should see is the air will begin to bubble out into the container you have on the floor, and eventually the fluid will just appear to move back and forth in the hose with no air bubbles in it, when you get to this point close the bleeder, top off the mastercylinder, and give the clutch a few test strokes. Hopefully you can find a method that works for you.

[Kev's UK Raider S]

Levig14

Thanks a lot for a very informative list of options and advice. I will take all those options on board and let you know how I get on after this week-ends efforts.

[levig14]

Did you have any luck? If so which method worked for you?

[Kev's UK Raider S]

Originally Posted by levig14

Did you have any luck? If so which method worked for you?

Haven't got around to trying yet. I ordered the longer brake lines and put them on yesterday. The extended Clutch Line which I have ordered should arrive by Wednesday, so will do it this week at some point.

I've done away with the metal rod/tubing of the clutch line altogether and have ordered a hose long enough to reach from the master cylinder all the way to the clutch. Cleaner look also I reckon.

Pics when complete and method used. Thanks for asking.

[BeeGee]

You can always reverse bleed the lines (fill from the bleeder). This pushes the air upward and minimizes any air left in the system. I've done it on a Ranger clutch and it came out more solid than what the dealership managed.
Here is a link to the tool I bought for doing the job:

http://www.brakebleeder.com/index.ph...products_id=16

[Kev's UK Raider S]

For those following this thread. The Clutch bleeding went to plan.
No issues at all. Bleed them the same way as I would the brakes, so result. I did run a new "Goodridge" Line from the Clutch Master Cylinder to the Clutch Housing itself, so have done away with the small metal tubing.

A few pics of the handlebars which pull back a further 4 inches. Those in Asheville will see the bike in the flesh as this is my partners Silver Raider.

I did have some issues trying to put the wiring back through the new handlebars, up the riser part, so had to run them outside, and enter the wiring into the handlebars between the two risers at the top.

Looks fine, but just a bit disappointed that part of the wiring did have to go externally.

Total job was around 12 hours, but it does make for a better riding position for those that are vertically challenged

I feel that the reason I couldn't get the wiring up the risers was that on one side the junction where the riser meets the handlebars, the hole was either small or obstructed by the weld internally when the risers were welded to the handlebar section. One side went fine though which seemed to prove the above statement.

Most of the time was un-soldering all the wiring within the switch gear, making notes of how it came apart and then re-soldering again. A bit detailed trying to get all the internal parts back into their correct positions. Had a few stressful moments I can tell you.

Would I do it again on "my" bike.......probably, but that's because I know a bit more from doing it last time, but it'll still be an 8-9 hour job second time around.

[pa113]

[quote=BeeGee;187315]You can always reverse bleed the lines (fill from the bleeder). This pushes the air upward and minimizes any air left in the system. I've done it on a Ranger clutch and it came out more solid than what the dealership managed.
Here is a link to the tool I bought for doing the job:

http://www.brakebleeder.com/index.ph...info&cPatanger
A Ranger clutch master holds twice as much fluid as a Raiders does, I don't thinkt that trick would work due insuffiecent fluid volumn.

[pa113]

Those bar are SWEET!!!! Kev. Looks good.